Day 9. Excideuil to Souillac

"Bon Courage!"

That was my farewell message from the girl in the hotel as I left this morning. I suspected that some courage would indeed be needed as the route included three significant climbs and another very hot day was forecast. 

I was glad of the early morning cool on the first ascent of 150 metres out of Excideuil but all of that height gain and more was lost on the descent to rejoin the France en Vélo book just before Hautefort. As the name implies it's on top of another hill which proved more of a struggle up to the villlage which boasted an excellent boulangerie and this imposing chateau.



The continuation along a high ridge gave some fine views but I was finding it hard going and in danger of bonking out until a few sweets gave a welcome sugar rush before an exhilarating long downhill to the Vézère valley at Le-Lardin-Saint-Lazare where I stopped for coffee and more supplies.

The book route now heads off west but I took a more direct way - a long grind in the heat up to the col between the Vézère and Dordogne valleys at over 300m, before another fine 15 km downhill ride to Souillac, entering town under a magnificent curved viaduct that carries the Paris-Toulouse railway down to the Dordogne.

My elegant hotel in the centre of the old town opposite this belfry was an oasis of cool in the heat. I took a brief stroll round town in search of drinks and ice cream, the many English voices reminding me that I was back on the tourist trail.

Distance today - 78 km.                   Distance from St Malo 728 km.

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